Week Seven – The river host

Tom and Katie were up early this morning. I got up around 7:00. Katie was putting together breakfast. Bacon and egg sandwiches are always a hit with me. I told her thank you as Tom and I headed back to drop me off where I got out. We loaded up the kayak again and it was back to the water. He dropped me off and snapped a few images. He wanted them to introduce me to the other trail angels along the route. He took off and I sat there for a bit. I was not ready to get moving that early. That is the downside of being nocturnal by nature. I finally put in to finish the second half of the river.
The river was full of twist and turns. There was a lot of tall grass and a lot of forest on the banks. There were a few birds out, but it was quiet. Nature has a way of quieting the mind and body in a way that the city will never understand. When you hear nothing and can just smile, that is something amazing. I could hear the wind coming long before it got to me. It was that type of quiet. I paddled quietly all day. I felt a gator bump the bottom of my kayak in the later part of the day, but nothing came of that. I was aiming for some houses after the bridge I had to go under. The tide was coming in as I was getting closer to the bay. The current was getting stronger. I looked to my left and saw a state park. I say that there was dry land and a place to pull my kayak up. I landed just before sunset and decided to pitch my tent that night. I had the image of black bears in my head. That and I just wanted to stretch out. I made my dinner and called it a night. The stars and moon were out as I sat under the trees looking at them.
I woke up the next morning well rested and ready to take on the day. I knew that there was going to be a front with strong storms coming in that night. I needed to make it out into or out of the bay that day. I did not have much more river to paddle on before getting out. I enjoyed the ride. I met a local woman who lived in the river. We chatted about life for a minute before pushing on. I always ice to get a locals insight to the area I am traveling through. It gives those places a memory instead of just another place on the water or road. As the day progressed the wind began to pick up out of the southeast. There was a storm coming that night and this was the winds challenging the front. I approached Ochlockonee Bay and it was not looking good. I was heading right into the wind before hitting the bay. I knew it would be a challenge to get to the area I wanted to land. I hit the bay and there was nothing but white capped waves rolling my direction. I cut to my left and aimed for land. I had a crossing of fighting heavy cross chop. I kept pushing further ahead than where I knew I would end up. The wind was trying to push me back up another waterway. It was not any bad day on any other trip. I was just challenging to cross. I made it to the land side and was going to push forward. The wind was getting stronger and I realized I would just be spinning my paddles. I found a narrow sand patch into someones back yard. I pulled up and got my kayak out. I checked if anyone was home. I got hold of my cousin who was going to school at FSU. She was working on her masters and was going to be able to meet me that evening for dinner. Katie was on her way to me and I needed to figure out where I could keep my kayak. There was no one home on the water. I saw this house next to where I landed that was most likely a vacation home. All the blinds were closed up and there was no signs of life. There was a car port under the house that had some wood panelings for protection from the wind. I put my kayak on its wheels and pulled it indoor the shelter. I figured it would be a secure place while I went out to eat and protection from the thunderstorms that were on their way.
Katie showed up and we took off. It was good to see her as I have not seen her for a few years. We went to a BBQ place for dinner. Her mom had bought me dinner many times while I was in college. I decided to pay it forward to treat my cousin. After dinner, we stopped by a grocery store to pick up a few supplies for the days ahead. She dropped me back off at the house that was watching my kayak. I set up camp and called it a night just as the storms were coming in. Florida storms have a way of getting your attention. They have lighting that cracks and thunder that rattles windows. I love it. I passed out with the sound of the storm unleashing. The next morning, I took off in considerably calmer waters. I enjoyed the sun as I moved along the bay. Once I made it out of the bay, I would be able to use my sail. I was looking to move. I hit the bay and the wind was behind me. The sail was up and I skimmed across the water. I made it to Piney Island where I had lunch. I met some kids down there with a stereo on the beach. I asked the to play Good Day by One Republic. I needed a new song in my head. Once I heard it, it was there.
I pushed out and popped my sail again. There was a marina ahead of me, but there was St Marks Lighthouse a bit further ahead and down the coast. I was figuring miles, my speed, the wind and daylight left. It would be close, but I cut out across the open water and went for it. I kept my eye on the prize and made it before sunset. The lighthouse was beautiful. I landed there but did not realize it was a Wildlife Preserve. I asked the ranger about camping there and he said I would have to go back into town and up the river to camp. I was not going backwards, but I only had about a half hour more of light left. I looked on my maps and saw sand a bit down the coast. I was cold, but got back into the kayak and pushed on. I passed one area looking for a better landing. I aimed for a place where there was to be sand, but when I got there, that was not the case. The sun had set and I needed to get back to try to find that first piece of sand landing that I saw. It was a little more challenging going back and trying to spot it. I ended up finding an area between some palm trees. I pulled my kayak up and out of sight. I found a grassy area to sleep for the night. I gathered up some old palm leaves and put them down for bedding. I figured that there were more than a few bugs in the grass. I set up camp, made dinner, and called it another good night. I was able to fall asleep with the gulf ten feet from me and the stars just lit up the night. I have learned to value camp locations like that. There is no one else near me and I had all the stars above me.
After St. Marks, I entered the Forgotten Coast. There are less people there today than there were 100 years ago. It was a lot of marsh islands. The islands were a lot of mud and silt built up with two types of grass on them. The first was a straw stalk (hard grass) and then there was the three foot thinner grass. Almost all the islands had that. It was not landible or conducive for camping. It was a quite day. There were only a few crab boats collecting their pots. I made into a river flowing into the gulf. I paddled upstream till I saw docks. I met a woman who said I could not stay on her sisters lawn because they did not want to be held liable. I did not know what I would hold them liable for, but I just said ok. She said their neighbors were not home and I could sleep there and tie up on their dock. They had permission to use their dock. I moved my kayak around tied up to the dock. I told them I would just sleep there. I set up camp, made dinner, and just crashed out on the dock. I was in an area that would be considered the “sticks”. Oh well. It was a dry place to sleep and I was grateful for that.
The next day was more of the same marsh. I was quiet most of the day wandering in my own thoughts. It is not a bad thing. I actually have the quiet time to think. I often reflect about this choice and all the other choices I have made that have go me where I am today. I don’t know if they are right or wrong, but this is the life I am fortunate to live. I was aiming to get as far as I could. I was planning to sleep on the marsh somewhere. The tide was going out in the later part of the day and there were oyster beds everywhere. I have a strong kayak, but I did not want to tear it up on the oysters. I watched the sunset and I could see some homes in the distance. I figured I would go for them. I used Google Earth to see the shallow sections (oyster beds). The moon was blocked by clouds so I just used my paddles doing deep strokes to feel for the bottom. I moved in and out of the oyster beds until I got to the river channel. It led back to Spring Warrior Fishing Camp. It was a plot of land with only a few houses on it. I mad it in and landed on the first one. I tied up to their dock and went to ring their doorbell. I do not like to knock after sunset. I just don’t want to freak people out (risk getting shot). Willie came out and I introduced myself. He told me I could camp out on the grass or on his dock. I gave him a card so he could check out my information and called it a night. I secured my kayak and called it a night.
The next morning as I was breaking things down, Willie came out to check on me. He offered to make me some breakfast and to get a shower. Those, along with laundry, are some of the things you don’t turn down because you never know when you will get them again. He made me some eggs and we talked a bit about the adventure and his life. He used to live in Clearwater, FL too. I was grateful for the breakfast and shower. I got a picture with him as I headed out. I was going to Keaton Beach that day to pick up a food order I had sent there.
The water was pretty smooth on the way to Keaton Beach. I did not have to go far. I talked with some friends along the way. I looked at a town and thought it was it, but I still had a few miles to go before arriving. As I approached the town, I called to confirm my food was there and to let them know I was inbound. I talked to a woman and she said there was no package there for me. I asked them to recheck. There was nothing. I had 2 meals left and this was not good. I called Backpackers Pantry to find out where it was located. They tracked it down and said it was returned back to Boulder. This was not good, but this is adventure. I paddled into town anyways. It was a lot of canals with houses built up on both sides. I went up and down a few. I knew there was a Wal-Mart close by and I was asking strangers for a ride. I finally met some guys coming back in from fishing. They offered to take me to a store. Wal-Mart was 20 miles away. Once we got to their dock, he told me that he would take me there so I could get the supplies I needed. We went into town talking about life all the way there. On the way back, he offered me a place to crash under his condo. It would be inside and away from all the bugs. I crashed out after a shower that night. This was just another fun and interesting day in the adventure.
I was off to reach Steinhatchie that day. I had been talking with another “trail angel” named Bill. He told me he would meet me out on the water and bring me to dinner that evening. I moved that day to get there in time. He headed out to the water to meet me. We met up. He had retired from Pizza Hut as a corporate manager. His friends called him “Pizza Bill”. We paddled into to town chatting about kayaking and adventures all the way. He went onto where he was parked and I found a place with a dock I could tie up for the night. The owners did not look like they were home. That is where I would end up sleeping for the night. We met up and went to eat at a local seafood restaurant. We talked about his work, his kid who was another adventurer, and about some of his kayaking through the Everglades. He had some good pointers. After dinner, he left me with a care package if Girl Scout cookies and a few other snacks. I was beyond happy and grateful. That night back on the dock, I just smiled as I went to sleep. I really enjoy meeting people. I liked the fact that he paddled out to see me. I thought that was cool.
The next day, I met the contractors that were working on the guys house whos dock I slept on. They told me they knew the guy and it as not a problem. Arron, the boss, came down as I was leaving. He asked if he could get me anything. He was excited about my adventure. He went to the store to pick up a few drinks for me. I appreciated that. He gave me his card. Hopefully we can catch up again while on this trip. I pushed off and aimed for Suwannee that day. I knew I would be paddling into the night, but I knew there was a full moon. The winds were in my favor most of the day. I was not making good progress. I found myself holding up on the mask islands to rest and my body was tired fighting the wind. I was looking at making Horseshoe Beach because the winds were not letting up after the sun set. I paddled into the night enjoying the fact that I could do that. I knew the water was not veer deep (less than three feet) and that there was a small chance of anything coming over to check me out. I talked to my friends, Ryan and Lisa, in Maine. They are excited to see me later this summer. It will be good to catch up with them again. I dodged a lot of the oyster beds as I made it into Horseshoe Beach. I pulled around towards the town part. I saw a house on the water that had a dock with their lights on. There was a sea wall with no real landings. I wanted to see if I could land on their dock. I used the strobe on my flashlight to get their attention. The woman and then her husband, Mike, came out on their deck. I told them what I was doing and asked for permission to land there. They agreed but the wife was sketched out for some reason. They were snowbirds from Philly. I landed and gave Mike my card. I was set up on the dock ready to go to bed, but the waves were rocking and rolling the dock. I got up and moved under the house next door. They were not home and they had some solid ground to sleep on.
In the morning, Mike came out and told me his wife was sketched out because she had been attacked in the past. I felt sorry for her. I thought that it was a shame that she still carried that fear and how crippling that must make her life. I don’t know what happened, but that can not be a good thing. ice offered me some water, a glass of OJ, and a chocolate donut. That tasted better than my oatmeal this morning. I thanked him and he wished me well on my journey. I took off and headed towards Suwannee and then towards Cedar Key. I was still deep in my own thoughts.